Turtle Housing Guide: Indoor Tanks & Outdoor Ponds
Where and how you house your turtle affects everything else — feeding, growth, shell condition and long-term health.
This guide covers both options: indoor tank setups for hatchlings and turtles kept inside year-round, and outdoor ponds for turtles old enough to live outside in New Zealand's climate.
New to turtle care? Start with our Turtle Care Guide for feeding and health basics.
Indoor Turtle Tank Setup
Tank Size
- Hatchling tank: approximately 60 x 30 x 30cm — adequate for a pair of hatchlings for around six months before they'll need to move up. A fish bowl is never adequate housing for a turtle, at any age.
- Adult tank: a pair of 15–25cm turtles need a minimum of 120 x 60 x 60cm.
Water Depth
There's no maximum, but the minimum should be at least twice the turtle's shell length. Keep the water level (or any floating basking island) well clear of the top of the tank — turtles are surprisingly good climbers, and a fall of 50cm or more onto a hard surface can be fatal.
Water Temperature
- 26°C for most species
- 28°C for Australian Painted Turtles
Below 15°C, turtles stop eating altogether — too warm for successful hibernation and too cold to digest food, so a turtle left in this range can effectively starve. Maintain temperature with a standard aquarium heater fitted inside a heater guard (this stops your turtle from breaking the heater). Your local reptile retailer can help size the heater to your tank's water volume.
Basking Temperature
A basking lamp — typically a clamp lamp with a 60W basking bulb — positioned over a dedicated basking area lets your turtle fully dry its shell. This single step prevents most bacterial shell infections and related health issues. On during the day, off overnight is the standard approach.
UVB/UVA Lighting
Essential, not optional. A UVB/UVA reptile bulb replicates natural sunlight and drives the Vitamin D synthesis turtles need for healthy shell and bone growth — without it, soft shell is common. Bulb output degrades well before it stops producing visible light, so replace on the manufacturer's recommended schedule, not when it "looks dim." The light must be unfiltered — no glass or perspex between the bulb and the basking turtle.
Water Quality & Filtration
Ammonia poisoning is the single biggest killer of pet turtles. Tank water can look completely clear while ammonia levels are dangerously high, and a turtle can die within hours. Snake-neck Turtles and Australian Painted Turtles are especially susceptible.
- Without a filter: change 50% of the water every day or two, and do a full clean weekly.
- With a quality power filter: frequent full water changes aren't needed, but regular filter maintenance still is.
- As a guide, every gram of solid food a turtle eats produces 4–5 grams of urine — feeding drives water quality more directly than most owners expect (see our feeding guidelines to avoid overfeeding).
Outdoor Turtle Pond Setup
Outdoor living suits turtles that are large enough, at the right time of year — see the sizing and timing notes below before moving any turtle outside.
Pond Size & Depth
The pond needs to be deep enough that your turtle can swim freely and can't simply stand on the bottom and reach the surface — aim for 35–45cm depth. Pre-formed fibreglass or plastic pond shells (from pet shops, garden centres or landscape suppliers) are the easiest option, or a heavy-duty pond liner. We don't recommend concrete: it needs to be extremely smooth, or the underside of the shell drags against it and causes abrasions that can lead to shell rot.
A ramp out of the water is essential so your turtle can get out to bask. Never keep a turtle in a pond too shallow to regulate its own temperature.
Position
Face the pond north for maximum sun exposure. Include both a sunning area and some shade so your turtle can move out of direct sun when it needs to.
Fencing
- Fence height: minimum 40cm
- Use solid materials (H3-treated half-rounds or plywood) — avoid shade cloth or wire mesh, since a turtle that can see through a fence will spend most of its time trying to get through or over it
- Keep rocks and shrubs away from the fence line — turtles will climb them to get over
- A capping or overhang angled inward stops escapes; a mesh top adds protection from dogs
Minimum Size for Outdoor Living
Hatchlings won't survive outside. We work to a minimum shell length of 12–15cm — smaller than that and survival rates drop significantly.
When to Move a Turtle Outside
Timing matters for surviving the first winter and every winter after. Move turtles into their outdoor pond between the last week of November and mid-December, so they experience the days lengthening toward the solstice before the season turns — this is part of what sets their internal clock correctly for hibernation.
Feeding Around Hibernation
Feed once daily as normal, then:
- Stop feeding mid-April
- Resume mid-to-late October
As autumn cools, appetite naturally drops off — this is normal, not illness. It's important a turtle empties its gut before hibernating; undigested food left inside it will rot and can be fatal. Turtles generally manage this timing themselves. If you're concerned, either consult a vet or move the turtle back to an indoor heated tank for winter and try outdoor living again the following summer.
Water Quality & Filtration (Outdoor)
- Change the water fully every one to two weeks, depending on pond size, turtle numbers, and feeding levels.
- Filtration isn't essential outdoors — optional, at your discretion.
- Heating isn't required either; outdoor ponds are meant to run at ambient temperature.
Hibernation
Turtles hibernate in the water, sometimes moving around a little or surfacing to bask on sunny winter days — this is normal. If your turtle isn't returning to the water regularly, especially once the sun goes down, re-set up the indoor heated tank for the season; not every turtle adjusts to outdoor hibernation on the first attempt.
Never attempt to hibernate a turtle indoors in its tank. New Zealand homes simply don't get cold enough for successful hibernation, and turtles that attempt it indoors will die.
Frequently Asked Questions
What size tank does a pet turtle need?
A hatchling pair needs roughly 60 x 30 x 30cm; an adult pair needs a minimum of 120 x 60 x 60cm.
What temperature should turtle water be?
26°C for most species, 28°C for Australian Painted Turtles. Below 15°C turtles stop eating.
Do pet turtles need UVB light?
Yes — UVB lighting is essential for Vitamin D synthesis and healthy shell growth, and the bulb must be unfiltered (no glass or perspex in the light path).
How deep should an outdoor turtle pond be?
35–45cm is ideal, with a ramp for your turtle to climb out and bask.
When can I move my turtle outside?
Once it reaches 12–15cm shell length, move it outdoors between the last week of November and mid-December.
Do I need to feed my turtle in winter?
No — stop feeding around mid-April and resume mid-to-late October, allowing the turtle's gut to empty naturally before hibernation.
Can I hibernate my turtle indoors?
No. Indoor tanks don't get cold enough for safe hibernation and attempting it indoors will kill your turtle. Outdoor ponds are the only safe hibernation environment in New Zealand.
Questions about setting up your turtle's home? Get in touch — we're New Zealand's only turtle specialists.